The Esoteric Deli

I love Mexico for its colors, for its variety of cultures, languages, traditions. Did I mention its diverse scenery and lovely colonial architecture? But what I love the most is how people follow customs that are a mélange of indigenous beliefs, secular ceremonies and Catholicism and blend them effortlessly – even the strangest ones –... Continue Reading →

A different kind of Christmas

A few years ago, my friend and I decided to spend Christmas in a different way, by taking a trip to Bolivia - we wanted to stay five days with an indigenous community, deep in the rainy jungles of the Beni region. After doing plenty of research, we decided the best place would be Rurrenabaque,... Continue Reading →

A hard path into Ecuador’s Amazon

(Originally published in Travelmag, 24 Jan, 2007) Kinaweno, Ecuador. A small indigenous community of 20 in the middle of nowhere. To be more precise, in the middle of the Amazon jungle. My friend Liana, a fan of odd experiences, was easily convinced of the benefits and excitements of such a trip, so we plunged into this... Continue Reading →

A day at the museum

Another full day to spend in San Cristobal. I think we annoyed our hosts because we did not take any of the tours they offered – frankly, after meeting Cesar our standards were too high for guides and tours. And we just stopped liking our hosts after seeing who they were worshiping. The lady kept... Continue Reading →

In Zapatista Territory

I will start with a question - and don’t google the answer:  WHO ARE THE ZAPATISTAS? *** When I woke up I knew I had an unusual day ahead of me. Today I would go into Zapatista territory to learn more about the movement and to see first hand who the Zapatistas were. Cesar was... Continue Reading →

Maya Villages

We started our day with an enjoyable breakfast at an off-the-beaten-path place where we were the only customers. Big breakfast, delicious coffee.  We then headed to the Zocalo where we were supposed to look for a woman with a colorful umbrella who would arrange our trip to nearby Maya villages. Of course nobody was in... Continue Reading →

Palenque and Mexican sombreros

The road from San Cristobal to Palenque is long and curvy. It feels as if there is no stretch of straight road for 6 hours which is tough on the stomach, especially when sitting in the back row of a 14 person minivan. We were picked up in front of our house at 6 am by... Continue Reading →

In San Cristobal de las Casas

  A day reserved for exploring San Cristobal and getting the feel of the place. We left our colorful room and stepped out in  the fresh chilly air of this mountain town (altitude 2100m). We trotted joyfully through the white and blue colonnades of the courtyard and approached the exit.  Then we noticed it: to... Continue Reading →

Enter Chiapas

A Romanian, a Croatian and a Pole head for Chiapas. None of us knew much about this forsaken Mexican province. Landing in Mexico City is pretty spectacular. On approach, from high above, a sea of buildings stretch as far as the eye can see. The metropolitan area has a population of 20 millions…enough to fit the... Continue Reading →

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